Bridges No.2 - Tower Bridge

Tower Bridge is undoubtedly one of the icons of London and the hundreds of tourists you see every day on More London Riverside are testament to that. They will be very few bridges that are can compete with this one on my walk. The bridge is a lot younger than people imagine. It was built over an eight year period and completed in 1894 following a period of increasing commercial activity in the East End of London. A fixed bridge, like London Bridge, could not be built as there were still docks upstream of the Tower of London. The Special Bridge or Subway Committee was set up in 1876 to come up with a solution and to approve a design. However, it was eight years later in 1884 that the design by the City Architect Horace Jones was chosen.

Tower Bridge is a bascule bridge (essentially a drawbridge with a counterweight system) and is 800 feet in length, although the central span between the two towers in 20o feet wide. The leaves of the bridge can be opened to 83 degrees allowing taller river traffic to pass under it. Originally the bridge was operated by a steam powered hydraulic system that was fed with water. The original hydraulics are still in use, but have now been converted to run with oil and electric motors.

Bridges No.1 - Queen Elizabeth II Bridge

On my last section of the walk I passed under the first of many bridges (Tower Bridge). So it seemed appropriate to record details of all the bridges I cross or pass under. And to begin we have to turn around and head back to the first leg and the view downstream of the Queen Elizabeth II (QE2) Bridge downstream from Crayford Ness.

The QE2 Bridge forms part of the Dartford Crossing that links the two end of the M25 (as technically its not a complete circle). The crossing was originally made by tunnel, until traffic volumes meant a new solution had to be found. The bridge was the answer and it opened in 1991. Southbound traffic uses the bridge, northbound the tunnels.

The bridge is a cable-stayed bridge (i.e. one with pillars, in this case two, with cables that support the road surface. The new Millau Viaduct in France designed by Norman Foster is a similar design, only bigger. The QE2 was designed by Sir William Halcrow & Partners Ltd has a span of 450m and is 65m above the surface of the Thames. It is the only bridge downstream of Central London. All other crossing downstream of Tower Bridge are tunnels (for pedestrians or vehicles), plus the Woolwich Ferry. Historically, bridges would have been impractical on this part of the river as it would have prevented tall ships reaching the Docklands.

Day 3: Rotherhithe - Vauxhall

A while since I last walked the Thames mainly due travels elsewhere, so I was getting itchy feet. So back to Rotherhithe, with a fully charged up battery in my camera. It had been hot in London for a couple of weeks, so I was expecting another nice day. It was a pleasant morning in Rotherhithe outside the Mayflower pub and Brunel Engine House. Even more delightful was St Mary’s church just around the corner. The path stayed away from the river for a short time, past some very stylish new flats. When I could return to the river frontage, there was the first sight of the Tower Bridge, the first of the bridges I’d seen since Crayford Ness (with the exception of the QEII bridge crossing the Thames Estuary).

Very soon I was at Butler’s Wharf and suddenly into a whole new world of Central London with its bars and shops and tourists. Here was Browns, All Bar One and the Design Museum. Across the water the towers of the City loomed behind Tower Bridge. And crossing a modern footbridge a glimpse of the industrial past down the narrow St Saviour’s Dock. Actually this is where the River Neckinger enters the Thames, rather than a purpose built dock or wharf. The name Neckinger derives from the name given to the hangman’s noose: the Devil’s Neckcloth. It was also here that Bill Sykes met his death in the mud of the dock in Oliver Twist. Further on the deep caverns between the old warehouse buildings along Shad Thames is one of my favourite past of London. It always feels very chilled. With the temperature climbing I took advantage of the countless refreshment opportunities by treating myself to a Banana Caramel Frappuccino from Starbucks.

Under Tower Bridge brings us to More London, the new office development that includes the GLA building, City Hall. The grass nearby, over which David Blaine once dangled, is surrounded my white hoardings behind which was supposed to be Ice Space, an ice themed bar and entertainment complex that recently went bust after only a few weeks after it opened. Amongst More London are lots of sculptures, my favourites being Fiona Banner’s Full Stops – large cast black blobs that appear as if they have landed from outer-space. Past more offices and through to Hays Galleria. This itself was once a dock, but has been filled in and covered over with a stunning arched roof.

Suddenly we’re at London Bridge, and after passing under it is Southwark Cathedral. The Cathedral is small – more like a large church. For size it cannot compete with the likes of Salisbury, Durham or even St Paul’s, but it has a great character, and a very good teashop. But no time to stop there, so onto the Golden Hind (or a replica of it) – the original is down in Devon. More bridges, then Shakespeare’s Globe (another replica!) and the fantastic Tate Modern (and a useful toilet break opportunity). Here we find London’s newest bridge, which compared to other is very slimline. The Millennium Bridge, or as everyone I could here around me was calling it, The Wobbly Bridge, has been a great addition to the Thames and provides a fantastic new view of the dome of St Paul’s.

Passing the Oxo Tower, we get to the South Bank complex with the National Film Theatre, Queen Elizabeth Hall and the Royal Festival Hall (currently being refurbished). A brief stop under Waterloo Bridge to have a look at the secondhand book stalls. Along side the Festival Hall another of London’s great new bridges, the Hungerford (Jubilee) foot bridges that replaced the dark and dangerous bridges that once hung alongside the railway bridge into Charing Cross.

Then onto County Hall and the London Eye – the busiest part of the walk. Huge queues of people stood in to hot sun waiting to be trapped in a glass bubble for half and hour. Once having gone under Westminster Bridge, the crowds eased considerably, but I got the best views of the Houses of Parliament. Spotted the Duck Bus tour in the river. These are great, and I’m tempted to go a trip some time. First time I saw these was a couple of years ago when I was stood outside Tate Britain and saw one of their boats/buses drive into the river by the MI6 building. Basically they combine river and bus tours of London in a bus that doubles as a boat. Genius!

To Lambeth Bridge, right by the London base of the Archbishop of Canterbury, Lambeth Palace. It reminds me that I’ve now in my fifth London borough: Bexley, Greenwich, Lewisham, Southwark and now Lambeth. Approaching Peninsula House, a former office building, now flats (including Jeffery Archer’s penthouse), I spotted my first celebrity of the Thames Path: Peter Stringfellow. I was amazed he was walking along this stretch of the Thames, but he was on his mobile and I swear I heard the words “Yeah babe!”.

With Tate Britain in view across the river, and the MI6 building coming near, I decided to head to Vauxhall station to head home. A short walk compared to the previous two stages but I’m now through Central London.

Day 2: Charlton – Rotherhithe

Another bank holiday weekend, and time to continue the walk, this time going on the Thames Path proper. I arrive at Charlton station nice and early and head towards the Green Chain walk via Charlton Athletic’s ground at The Valley. The Green Chain are some walks around south London linking together local parks. This eventually leads down to the Thames Barrier, very close to where I caught my bus two week’s ago.

Suddenly the control buildings for the Barrier appear, and then the Barrier itself. I am right next to it now, on the downstream side. Here there is a sign for the Thames Path with both the barge logo and the acorn. The National Trail starts here and its 180 miles to the Source. A tunnel take you to the other side of the Barrier, where the ‘hero’ view of the Barrier can be seen. The upstream side has large hoods, and despite its age still looks very space age.

Etched into the wall of the tunnel is a representation of the river from mouth to source, name checking towns, tributaries, locks and weirs.

The path from the Barrier is pretty shabby and makes the extension look good. I suspect this may be due to age of the National Trail section, but parts were looking a little unloved. The river here echoed that of Erith again, with wooden piers and industrial sites. A prominent gravel works is one of the obvious sites here and the path heads onto the Greenwich peninsula.

The first buildings of the Greenwich Millennium Village are here, now looking quite old. Although probably very nice flats, the exterior was hideous. Very eighties in red, orange and white. Although made pleasant by the Greenwich Peninsula Ecologic Park (a smallish pond!).

Here the Dome dominates the pathway ahead, but two large tents have appeared on some of the bare land in front of the Dome. As I get closer the noise from them is noticeable – cheers and the sound of footballs being kicked. The northern side of the complex reveals itself to be the David Beckham Academy, one of the England and Real Madrid midfielder's latest business ventures. It seemed popular for the noise, but this is surely a temporary site before the developers finally come in to build the promised residential schemes around the Dome.


Next, on a pier in the river is Quantum Cloud, a sculpture by Anthony Gormley. This is a mass of short scaffolding pieces welded together. The centre is a far dense mass than the outer edges, and from certain angles the human figure (the signature of Gormley’s work) is apparent.

Through the blue fence to the right, now, is the Dome. The ticket huts now standing derelect and empty. Weeds pushing through to tarmac. The pier that once brought visitors here in 2000 is locked off and disused. However, some work is now underway here to convert the place to The O2. But it is very sad that the place has stood empty for so long – and it does show. In needs to be ready for 2012 at least, as some of Olympic events are due to be held here.

On the other side of the peninsula I cross the Meridian, but there are only a few remants put here in 2000, to mark the fact. Indeed there were so many parraell lines on the path, I was unsure which was supposed to be the meridian itself. Although a gap in the glass in the railings and a tuning fork type structure on the pier all seemed to line up. Pearing through the fence at the ground of the dome reveals some plaques in the ground with markings of different counties on either side of the meridian (Spain and Algeria I spot). But its difficult to see and entirely cut off from the public now.

The towers of Canary Wharf now loom over the water, sparkling in the spring sunshine. The path now runs past more industrial sites, as well as some working wharfs (although empty on Sunday). Indeed this has the most industrial feel of any section of the path since Crayford Ness. There are a lot of cyclists here making it quite perilous on the narrow paths and blind corners.

The domes of the Royal Navel College at Greenwich are now visible, but I’m still surrounded by industry. Suddenly I turn another corner and find some beautiful buildings at Ballast Quay. Here are some Georgian cottages on a cobbled street that look a million miles away from the dereliction behind me. These were the former Harbour Masters Office and presumably workers cottages.

Past Trinity Hospital, a delightful little building with clocktower. It was founded in 1613 by Henry Howard, the Earl of Northampton and Keeper of Greenwich Park for the poor men of Greenwich. It had accommodation for 20 men, all of whom were widowers. The almshouses themselves (pictured with clocktower) were built in 1812 and are now administered by The Mercers' Company, one of the ancient City Livery Companies.

Close by is the Greenwich Naval College. A combination of building work on the path and filming (I think I heared a policeman mention the BBC) makes for a poor photo, but beyond there is a May Day festival in some of the grounds near the Cutty Sark. Just in time for lunch, I can partake in the hogroast. Have a quick look at the Cutty Sark (always impressive and not too hounded by tourists today) and the entrance to the Greenwich Foot Tunnel, before heading off on the Thames Path with a 99 Flake. I have an option here. From Greenwich to Teddington Lock it is possible to walk the Thames Path on both sides of the river, the connection at Greenwich being the foot tunnel. There are of course opportunities to cross over further upstream across the bridges of Central London. But, on this occassion, I choose to stay on the south bank.

This is where the path heads though council estates of Deptford. It is also round here where the signposting of the Thames Path become woeful. Direction arrows disappear and I keep going the wrong way and have to recorrect. This is a point where the path deviates widely from the river, so you need good signs. Either they’ve never been there or they have and been destroyed or vandalised. Some of the original buildings at the Deptford docks have been retained and are very attractive. But here my camera battery goes flat.

The quality of the housing improves as I head north again past Greenland Docks. Again the signage is poor, and the path moves to and from the river frequently, but sometimes there is no signage to say so. At one point I walk down the wrong path and a very irate old man bashes on his window to shoo me away. The path then goes through the Surrey Quays City Farm and from here the building become older and more prestigious along Rotherhithe Road. The Docklands Hilton causes more path problems, but finally I get another good run along the river as I pass Westferry Circus on the far bank and leave Canary Wharf behind me.

Very quickly I’m in historic Rotherhithe and outside the Mayflower pub and the Brunel Engine House. This is where the pumping equipment was housed for Brunel’s Thames Tunnel and very nearby is Rotherhithe Underground Station. The Tunnel is used for the East London line and I head back to Waterloo on it and the more modern Jubille Line from Canada Water. But I’ll be back (with a fully charged camera) for the next stretch to Tower Bridge and Central London.

Day 1: Crayford Ness – Charlton

Having never ventured this far east in Lo that I was doing the right thing by starting here. Very quickly after leaving Slade Green railway station I was walking through fields. OK, they’re not the same type of fields I’ll see later in Oxfordshire countryside, but these were quite pleasant urban fringe fields, and they’ll be the last I see for a while on this journendon I wondered what I’d find. Clearly I was on the eastern edge of the conurbation and it quickly felty.

The Thames Path South Eastern Extension, to give its full name, starts at Crayford Ness, a reasonably remote spot sticking out into the Thames Estuary just upstream of where the River Darent flows into the Thames. To get their by public transport involves a journey to Slade Green and then a walk to the Ness, via the walkways on the banks of the Darent and the a ‘nature trail’ complete with interpretation boards for the concrete loving urbanite.


The country is very flat here, and looming in the distance is the flood barrier for the Darent. This was where the path was heading and for a short while in the warmish spring sunshine it felt almost like a country stoll. But then the shabby industrial estate near the Ness and somewhat orphaned from nearby Erith appeared alongside the path. This became more ugly as the mouth of the Darent approached, and turned into a car scrap yard at the Ness itself.

Crayford Ness was a non event. Rather the first glimpse of the Thames here was the event. It’s very wide at this point and the large pool of water around Erith makes it look like the sea, not a river. From the Ness the QEII bridge could be seen downstream. But this was where the journey proper began up the Thames. Although there was no fanfare at the Ness. The beacon marked on the map was just an aerial on a scaffold tower, and the interpretation boards were strangely absent.

For now I would be following the symbol of the extension. The National Trails use an acorn to guide walkers along the right route, but the extension uses a little sailing boat, a Thames barge according to the publicity material.

The path then dropped down onto the streets of Erith, moving past the entrances to different wharfs and industrial yard with river frontage. Close to Erith’s Morrison’s supermarket was one of the few piers into the river that is open to the public with a small hut at its end (and also a group of Erith’s chavs!).

Other piers, probably once used for offloading cargoes, are now largely derelict, some in a very dilapidated state. The path clings to the river wall moving in and out of inlets (as it will do throughout London). The path leaves Erith by going past large industrial plants, once of which belonging to the global agribusiness, ADM, with it’s large white silos and complex array of conveyors and piers processing oil seed rape. Still very much active, a boat was moored one of the piers.

The buildings thin out a little, particularly on the north bank. On the south side large modern industrial shed and distribution warehouses predominate, particular near the Crabtree Manorway. On the north bank the building of Ford’s Dagenham plant come into view with its two prominent wind turbines.

Then the sight of the Crossness incerator building appears around the corner, as the path passes along a derelict site and draws nearer to this unique building. Its metal curves anticipate the Thames Barrier ahead, as well as Frank Gheary’s creations such as the Guggenheim in Bilboa.

Immediately after the incinerator, the path drops down into a concrete walkway. Although only yards away the river goes out of view as the path runs alongside the Crossness sewage works. Thames Water have clearly been doing the local PR thing here, with lots of cast slabs with ‘Did you know’ facts about anything connecting London and water, including cholera! To make up for the lack of a river view, Thames Water provide some scenic paintings on the concrete retaining wall. At the far western end of the sewage works are some older Victorian buildings, some of which were being refurbished. Once contained the Crossness Beam Engines, first built and installed by Joseph Bazelgette, the Victorian engineer who created the Victoria Embankment and the modern sewers in Central London.

Passing a small golf driving range then brings some first substantial flats and houses with river access. At this stage they are reasonable small less prestigious than what will come, but this is the edge of Thamesmead. Then the first glimpse of the Millennium Dome and beyond it Canary Wharf while walking a long, stark stretch of promenade. This extends for some distance and eventually the housing receeds back as I approached Tripcock Ness. Over the river the flood barrier at Creekmouth dominated the skyline.

The river now turns south with the entrance to the Royal Docks on the opposite side of the river. Eventually more flats, first on building site, but then other modern blocks. This area is very stark and windswept and I can’t help feeling that we’re going to make the same problems that were made in the 1960s. What will these new developments be like in the 2030s?

Having said that the residential development at Royal Woolwich Arsenal looks impressive and the conversion of the old Arsenal buildings look well done. Unlike future sections, there has been thought about cyclist and walkers on the river, and you’re not forced off the river by modern developments. Some clever bridges and walkways also help you up and over the various inlets.

At the Woolwich Arsenal an cluster of Anthony Gormley style iron figures in a circle, some of the better public art I have seen. Canary Wharf and the Dome appear closer now as I turn into the stretch up to the Thames Barrier. After passing the queue for the Woolwich ferry, the pathway moves off the river for the first time due to a residential building site. When it does return there is only a short stretch with a last look at the Barrier before leaving the river for some time, until the path down to the Barrier itself. But that will have to wait for another day. After a day of pavement pounding, I wait for a bus that takes me to Greenwich station and then back home.

The Germ of an Idea

A month or so ago a friend of mine told me about his plans to walk a couple of legs of the Thames Path from Oxford to Reading (Reading being where we both live). A good idea I thought. After seven years of living in Reading, I’d only walked on a few short stretches of the Path, the only National Trail that follows the length of a river.

But this was the seed planted in my head and it led to looking at Thames Path websites and then buying the official Ordnance Survey guide. From my Internet research it quickly became clear that the Thames Path had been extended in recent years. The official National Trail, identified by a little acorn on the signposts, runs from the Thames Barrier to the Source. The Extension, not officially part of the National Trail, runs from the Thames Barrier eastwards on the southbank to Erith and Crayford Ness. I decided that I had to do the extension as well, so on Easter Monday 2006 I made the trek by train from Reading to Slade Green (sharing some of my journey with some Portsmouth fans on their way to a crunch match at Charlton).