Day 3: Rotherhithe - Vauxhall

A while since I last walked the Thames mainly due travels elsewhere, so I was getting itchy feet. So back to Rotherhithe, with a fully charged up battery in my camera. It had been hot in London for a couple of weeks, so I was expecting another nice day. It was a pleasant morning in Rotherhithe outside the Mayflower pub and Brunel Engine House. Even more delightful was St Mary’s church just around the corner. The path stayed away from the river for a short time, past some very stylish new flats. When I could return to the river frontage, there was the first sight of the Tower Bridge, the first of the bridges I’d seen since Crayford Ness (with the exception of the QEII bridge crossing the Thames Estuary).

Very soon I was at Butler’s Wharf and suddenly into a whole new world of Central London with its bars and shops and tourists. Here was Browns, All Bar One and the Design Museum. Across the water the towers of the City loomed behind Tower Bridge. And crossing a modern footbridge a glimpse of the industrial past down the narrow St Saviour’s Dock. Actually this is where the River Neckinger enters the Thames, rather than a purpose built dock or wharf. The name Neckinger derives from the name given to the hangman’s noose: the Devil’s Neckcloth. It was also here that Bill Sykes met his death in the mud of the dock in Oliver Twist. Further on the deep caverns between the old warehouse buildings along Shad Thames is one of my favourite past of London. It always feels very chilled. With the temperature climbing I took advantage of the countless refreshment opportunities by treating myself to a Banana Caramel Frappuccino from Starbucks.

Under Tower Bridge brings us to More London, the new office development that includes the GLA building, City Hall. The grass nearby, over which David Blaine once dangled, is surrounded my white hoardings behind which was supposed to be Ice Space, an ice themed bar and entertainment complex that recently went bust after only a few weeks after it opened. Amongst More London are lots of sculptures, my favourites being Fiona Banner’s Full Stops – large cast black blobs that appear as if they have landed from outer-space. Past more offices and through to Hays Galleria. This itself was once a dock, but has been filled in and covered over with a stunning arched roof.

Suddenly we’re at London Bridge, and after passing under it is Southwark Cathedral. The Cathedral is small – more like a large church. For size it cannot compete with the likes of Salisbury, Durham or even St Paul’s, but it has a great character, and a very good teashop. But no time to stop there, so onto the Golden Hind (or a replica of it) – the original is down in Devon. More bridges, then Shakespeare’s Globe (another replica!) and the fantastic Tate Modern (and a useful toilet break opportunity). Here we find London’s newest bridge, which compared to other is very slimline. The Millennium Bridge, or as everyone I could here around me was calling it, The Wobbly Bridge, has been a great addition to the Thames and provides a fantastic new view of the dome of St Paul’s.

Passing the Oxo Tower, we get to the South Bank complex with the National Film Theatre, Queen Elizabeth Hall and the Royal Festival Hall (currently being refurbished). A brief stop under Waterloo Bridge to have a look at the secondhand book stalls. Along side the Festival Hall another of London’s great new bridges, the Hungerford (Jubilee) foot bridges that replaced the dark and dangerous bridges that once hung alongside the railway bridge into Charing Cross.

Then onto County Hall and the London Eye – the busiest part of the walk. Huge queues of people stood in to hot sun waiting to be trapped in a glass bubble for half and hour. Once having gone under Westminster Bridge, the crowds eased considerably, but I got the best views of the Houses of Parliament. Spotted the Duck Bus tour in the river. These are great, and I’m tempted to go a trip some time. First time I saw these was a couple of years ago when I was stood outside Tate Britain and saw one of their boats/buses drive into the river by the MI6 building. Basically they combine river and bus tours of London in a bus that doubles as a boat. Genius!

To Lambeth Bridge, right by the London base of the Archbishop of Canterbury, Lambeth Palace. It reminds me that I’ve now in my fifth London borough: Bexley, Greenwich, Lewisham, Southwark and now Lambeth. Approaching Peninsula House, a former office building, now flats (including Jeffery Archer’s penthouse), I spotted my first celebrity of the Thames Path: Peter Stringfellow. I was amazed he was walking along this stretch of the Thames, but he was on his mobile and I swear I heard the words “Yeah babe!”.

With Tate Britain in view across the river, and the MI6 building coming near, I decided to head to Vauxhall station to head home. A short walk compared to the previous two stages but I’m now through Central London.