Day 15: Shillingford - Day's Lock, Dorchester

All the weeks that have gone by with great weather, and then for the bank holiday weekend its goes cold and rains – constantly. The plan was to walk yesterday, but it rained – all day – and night. Then the plan was to walk today, as far as Culham. But it rained – most of the day.

In the end we visited a local museum in the morning, then went for lunch at the Barley Mow in Clifton Hampden. After a good lunch, the rain seemed to be easing, and we took the decision to walk a short stretch that afternoon. And luckily the rain was coming to a stop and for most of the walk not a drop of water was falling from the sky.

This short walk began away from the river, dropping down the first track by the bridge. We immediately pass a very muddy field with a family of Saddleback pigs, with a litter of piglets. As soon as they spotted us, they made a beeline for the fence near us. We then wound our way through the alleyways of Shillingford, coming out at the river end of Wharf Road, where the heights of floods from days gone by are recorded on the wall of the riverside cottage.

However, we must leave the river behind for a while, and head up to the main road – and this is a busy road, where we have to evade the spray from passing cars as they drive through the standing water. Soon, by the big road sign for Dorchester, we cross back over and walk the short path through a field and back down to the river.

The walk is then simply one through the riverside fields, where the grass is now pretty long. Whilst it’s no longer raining, the grass is very wet, and my trouser legs got quite damp. Very soon we spy the small hill to the left with the small copse of tree on top. This is Whittenham Clumps. Then just ahead is the lock-keepers cottage for Day’s Lock and beyond, the lock itself. Here, there is a red horse chestnut in full bloom.

But this is where we end the walk, but we must still take the path to Dorchester village, where the Abbey is clear on the skyline. As we approach the village, the rain sets in again – we were very lucky, and at least I got a bit of the path walked, even if it was my shortest leg! We call in on Dorchester Abbey itself, and the tiny tearoom in the old grammar school building. This is run by the WI and is simply two large tables in a small room. Tea or coffee available at good value, plus an excellent selection of homemade cakes. Worth a visit – if you can get a seat!

Upstairs, there is also an exhibition as part of the Artweeks festival taking place across Oxfordshire, in different location. I was sorely tempted to buy something, but resisted. Then we paid a quick call into the Abbey itself, where there was an unusual sound sculpture installed, which played out angelic chants at random, based on how people moved around the abbey. It was called Thin Air.

All in all a good day out, shame the walk wasn’t a bit longer.

Day 14: Goring - Shillingford

A beautiful morning for a walk through the Oxfordshire countryside along the Thames and today the Thames Path felt the most rural of all the 14 days walked so far. Not only was it because the path was, in parts, relatively remote from any form of settlement, but it was also a walk where we met very few people en route.

The walk began with a stroll across the long wide bridge that links Goring with Streatley. Then we turn done a small lane fronted by cottages with the church at the end. The path skirts around the churchyard and eventually leads into the fields bordering the river. From here it is a short walk through fields and woods to Cleeve Lock with a few sheep and their lambs relaxing in the grass. The path ahead is in the wide open through a riverside field. Approaching the next village of Moulsford we walk past the bottom of various gardens of large house. However, one of these houses is a little different to the others and to any I’ve seen so far on the Thames. The house is themed around Egyptian architecture, but has the air of a 1980s leisure centre. At first I thought this was in fact built in the 1980s, but further investigations on the web have revealed it to be built in the last few years.

Then the path has to divert away from the river and we are led through the yard of The Beetle & Wedge pub, up Ferry Lane, and onto the main road through Moulsford itself. Eventually we come to edge of the village and carry on along the main road. Down to the right in the valley we can see the river and the next bridge, another of Brunel’s brick railway bridges. Then the path is directed down a track opposite a bard conversion. The path leads down to the bridge and crosses over an elevated stage under the bridge itself. Then its back to a riverside walk through fields, in one case passing a field of bright yellow oil-seed rape. Then we come to a broad road that leads straight into the river and it is here we divert from the path for lunch, and head up, past some of the redundant buildings of Fair Mile Hospital, to the nearby pub. Its OK, but nowt special.

Back to the river and a walk through a local nature reserve followed by more idyllic riverside walking. Then suddenly the peace is broken by a rowing eight passing with their coach blasting instructions down a megaphone. After walking past a small stand of pines, we see the first evidence of Oxford upstream as we pass Oxford Brookes University’s boathouse. Later on the on the opposite bank the half-timbered boathouse of Carmel College stands proudly on a small promontory, but it has seen better days and is on the verge of collapsing into the river.

the riverbank Then we catch glimpse of a concrete road bridge, hinting that we are closing in on Wallingford. This is the by-pass bridge over the river and then soon after a new building which almost incorporates the path. Again it’s a university boathouse, but this is a far grander affair and shows some money has been spent on it and it belongs to the bigger, richer Oxford University Boat Club.

Then we’re into the built up area of Wallingford and we are walking past more houses, this time literally walking though people’s back garden – the path isn’t fenced off. Then the path hits the lanes of Wallingford, past St Leonard’s church and through alleyways between small cottages. Then the street opens out into a area dominated by the stunning spire of St Peter’s Church. Beyond this is the High Street, which we cross and drop back down to the river by Wallingford Bridge. The path continues northwards and is quickly back into the Oxfordshire fields. To the left are the ruins of Wallingford Castle, and a great silhouetted view of St Peter’s is behind us.

The path then leads to Benson lock where we cross the walkway by the weir. A short stop is then made at the well place tea rooms by the marina at Benson (they do very good homemade cakes and traybakes by the way!). Then its just a short walk to Shillingford where our car is waiting in the hotel car park.

Day 13: Reading - Goring

A day of contrasts today, beginning with the weather. The nature of every one of these legs along the Thames Path has been you have to arrange the means of transit to and from the start and end points. Today I decided to drive and park at Goring and get the train back to Reading to start the walk. Early morning at Goring it was misty, damp and decidedly cool. By the time I arrived in Reading the skies were blue, the temperature much higher and the sun was out. And bar the odd bit of cloud during the day, this was the weather I took with me on what was a great Easter weekend.

The walk was also one of contrasts particularly with the environment on opposite banks of the river. It began on the southern bank next to Clearwater Court, the headquarters of Thames Water. This is the building where the windows were being washed during the hosepipe ban last summer. The path between Reading and Caversham Bridges passes further offices and riverside houses and flats. After Caversham Bridge the land by the riverside opens up, passing Reading Rowing Club’s buildings we are on the Promenade with parkland on the Berkshire side of the river. Across the water the houses of The Warren form the river frontage. So on one side of the river are the large Thameside houses that have already become familiar. On the other the municipal park with the Rivermead leisure centre at its centre, plus to odd drunk slung over he benches.

After the leisure centre is passes the path passes the land where the Reading Festival is held and where the WOMAD Festival was also held, up until last year. Soon the houses on the Caversham bank end and give way to fields. Meanwhile on bank where I’m walking, the path approaches Tilehurst and the railway line. The path is squeeze on a strip of land between river and railway with little to see other than the fields on the opposite bank. Some of this stretch reminds me of the walk past the reservoirs in West London, but the graffiti is more amusing (“FREE STONHENGE ’85” “NO DOGGING”).

Then at the Roebuck pub, and at the point where the path arrives in West Berkshire, the path heads away from the river up some steep steps and over a railway footbridge onto the main Oxford Road. The reasons for this diversion is a recalcitrant Purley landowner in the 18th century who refused access to his land for the towpath, leading to huge delays for river traffic of the time. The office path now weaves its way through suburbia then finally hits the road to Mapledurham Lock. Sadly Mapledurham is one of the locks that is being worked on this winter and access is not possible. Instead we are diverted onto the meadows immediately upstream of the lock, missing the view of Mapledurham House and Mill.

The river now follows a huge arc en route to Pangbourne. This is a popular stretch on his sunny bank holiday with people walking in both directions. This stretch provides good views of Hardwick House and its impressive stable block that forms the stud farm here. At Pangbourne there are plenty of people having picnics on the riverbank, but I must continue over the bridge and onto the north bank. The bridge at Pangbourne is still a toll bridge charging 20p for each car. This is a private bridge run by the Whitchurch Bridge Company.

Whitchurch, the village on the northern bank begins a stretch of the walk that becomes a stroll through the rolling Chiltern countryside. The path follows the main road through the village then turns off along the farm track to Hartslock Farm. It also serves further houses, and also passes a doggy playground. We then follow a footpath down some steep steps and immediately up again and then winds its way through the riverside woods, back down to the river.

Out of the woods and up against the river once more, we arrive at Gatehampton Manor and then shortly afterwards pass under one of Brunel’s brick railway bridges, an impressive construction sat in this part of the Oxfordshire countryside. Then its just a short walk up to Goring Bridge and the village itself.

Day 12: Henley-on-Thames - Reading

An overcast and quite gloomy morning in Henley, but with the promise from the forecast for a sight of the sun before the day is out. And sure enough, it made its appearance well before lunch. The path from Henley passes the main car parks for Henley which later in the day will probably be quite full, but for now only a few local dog walkers are out and about. Towards the end of this area, and just before Mill Meadows, is the River & Rowing Museum, a large wooden clad modern building that opened in 1999 and designed by David Chipperfield.

At the other end of Mill Meadows is Marsh Lock, an unusual lock compared to others on the Thames. The lock system is mid-channel, as opposed to other which on alongside one of the riverbanks. The Thames Path passes past the lock, by way of a raised wooden walkway that stretches out into the river – the one time when you are truly walking the Thames. Around here are some pretty impressive and large houses on both banks, some of the largest I’ve seen on the walk. On the opposite bank is Park Place, with the Happy Valley behind, alongwith a cobbled bridge.

Soon the meadows come to end and reach the edge of Lower Shiplake. Another large house and its ground block the riverbank, so the Path diverts off away from the river and follows the road that serves the houses ahead. This first house, Bolney Court, has its own model railway. The first sign is the large model railway station building, complete with working clock tower. The railway tracks hug the edge of the driveway and snake their way around the garden. I can only imagine what the actual trains are like that run on this great garden toy. The big boy’s alternative to Hornby once you made a few million!

We now follow the road through Lower Shiplake onto the real life railway station. Here we cross tracks and past the Baskerville Arms (looks like a very nice menu) and follow more of the streets of the village. Eventually the path diverts via fields back towards the river at Shiplake Lock.

Then its back to the river and the Thames meadows as the path winds it way towards Sonning. Shiplake College stands on the ridge high above the river immediately to the north, and eventually the path opens up onto the lawns by the College’s quaint half-timbered boathouse. But the path continues along one of my favourite stretches of the river that I knew already. The green shoots of spring starting to burst from the river side shrubs. Following pleasant riverside stroll Sonning suddenly appears with a great view of the red brick bridge that links the village to the Mill, now a theatre complex. The path cross the bridge and then passes St Andrew’s Church and The Bull Inn (again another good menu). A little further on is Sonning Lock and then the final stretch of the river before the mood changes once again.

Reading soon makes its presence felt, and it brings back a London-esque feel to the Thames. The meadows by Thames Valley Business Park stretch ahead, dominated by a view of the twin gas holders at Kennetmouth. To the right are the buildings of the business park, on a former power station site. The likes of Microsoft and Oracle have their offices here, the businesses that now ensure that Reading has been successful in the modern world. At the end of the meadows by the business park are the impressive facilities of Wokingham Canoe Club. Then we finally pass the towering gas holders before one of the Thames major tributaries enters the river. Here the Kennet flows in and is crossed by Horseshoe Bridge, that clings to side of the railway bridge. This then leads the path past Tesco and then onto Kings Meadow and subsequently Caversham Lock. Immediately after is the first of Reading's two bridge, Reading Bridge and it is here where we round off today’s walk.

Bridges No.40 - M25 Motorway Bridge

The M25 is carried over two very different bridges as the pictures above show. The top image shows the bridge on the downstream side of the motorway, while the lower image shows the upstream side.

The first bridge on this site, was the upstream bridge. It was designed by Edward Lutyens to carry the A30 Staines bypass over the river and it bears a strong resemblance to Lutyen's Hampton Court Bridge. Lutyens worked with the engineer H W Fitzsimmons for the design, which was ready in 1939. However, the Second World War intervened and construction was delayed for around 20 years before it opened in November 1961. The bridge is built from reinforced concrete and steel, clad with red bricks and Portland stone balustrades.

Lutyens was also involved in the early ideas for an orbital road around London in his Highway Development Survey of 1937. The first parts of the M25 that were eventually built were J23-24 (Hatfield - Potters Bar) in 1975 and J6-8 (East Grinstead - Reigate) in 1976. It was then decided that the M25 should cross the Thames alongside the A30 at Staines and a second bridge would be required. This was the preferred to the construction of a tunnel under the river. By 1983, the second bridge, alongside Lutyen's was opened, designed by Ove Arup and Partners. The bridge has the same general profile at Lutyen's bridge, alowing for what appears to be a seamless single bridge when viewed side on.

Day 11: Marlow - Henley-on-Thames

I didn’t have the chance to continue the walk in January, but the first Saturday of February was a stunning day – perfect for a riverside walk. The only downside turned out to be the glare from the sun, often bouncing of the still clam surface of the river itself. The walk begins through the park at the southern end of Marlow’s high street. Looking back towards the buildings of the town, it was possible to make out the statue of Steve Redgrave, reminding us importance of rowing for this stretch of the Thames.

Very quickly Marlow retreats from the river. A look back, over the shoulder to see another great view of Marlow Bridge and the church spire, just as good as the approach from the other direction. This stretch of the Thames features large meadow land, and the immediate countryside seems to be very expansive. Buildings, when you do encounter them, appear bigger and bulkier than they probably are. This was the case with All Saints Church, Bisham that stands on the opposite banks. Shortly after you pass the back of Bisham Abbey, now part of the National Sports Centre.

As the river curves round to the west, the new flats on Temple Island come into view, crowded around the small marina. These do seems big and bulky and, I think, out of place. Temple Lock is then just ahead. Even though the lock is effectively closed for winter, the grumpy lockkeeper was very much on duty, giving me short shrift for trying the walk past the lock through the wrong gate.

Just after Temple Lock it is time to cross the river again, over a modern, beautifully curved wooded footbridge, built as part of joining together two sections of the Thames Path. A short walk along the south bank and we approach the island cluster around the village of Hurley. Here there is a great view of Harleyford Manor, and then we cross over onto the islands themselves to walk past Hurley Lock. Once past the lock, its back over another footbridge onto the south bank proper. Hurley is a very picturesque village, but sadly I did not have time to explore. However, there were plenty of canoeist about, clearly enjoying the cascades and rapids on the downstream side of the weir at Hurley.

The next stretch is probably the most ‘remote’ of the route so far. Glimpses of the Danesfield Hotel on the ridge above can be seen along this stretch, but the only signs of civilisation are a small caravan park, until we reach the houses at Frogmill. Once past these path takes a shortcut to avoid a small loop of the river. We meet the river again where there used to be one of the many Thames ferries. This is at Medmenham, with a grand view of the buildings of Medmenham Abbey. This is the location of the infamous Hellfire Club.

Quickly, we are back onto the riverside meadows approaching the Culham estate. The path then moves up the hill, away from the river and begins a complex zig-zig around the grounds of the estate, and past the handsome Culham Court built in 1771. Here we gain some considerable height above the river, particularly in the walk into Aston. This offers some great views down into the valley, with the river curving away into the distance.

Aston itself is a small hamlet, with a large attractive pub – The Flowerpot Hotel. The route then heads down the road from the village back towards the river, and Aston’s old ferry crossing. Across the river is another fine house at Hambleden Place. Now we back to civilisation, with many more people walking the path. The path reaches Hambleden Lock, with views across to the weir to Hambleden Mill. The river now forms a distinctive curve with he Italianate mansion of Greenlands prominent in the distance. This was the former home of the bookseller and stationer W H Smith. Indeed I have a vague memory of the upmarket own-brand writing paper sold by W H Smith carrying the Hambleden brand.

As the river straightens out, we find ourselves on the long stretch to Henley, and there were plenty of people out for an afternoon walk. Temple Island stands at the start of the Henley Regatta course, and is marked by a beautiful folly. It was originally built as a fishing lodge for nearby Fawley Court. Interestingly it was built in the same year as Culham Court was completed (1771). The main feature is the domed roof, supported by columns, sheltering the statute of a classical nude.

The church of Henley can now be seen in the far distance, and the final walk down to the town itself proves to be a pleasant experience for a sunny winter afternoon. The path then crosses the bridge, just after passing the famous Leander Club. This is Steve Redgrave’s rowing club and he has provided suitable bookends to this part of the walk.

Bridges No.39 - Staines Bridge

Staines has a long history, and developed in part as a crossing point of the Thames. There has been a bridge at Staines since at least Roman times. This is clear from the name given to Staines by the Romans: Pontes. Staines was an important crossing point following the Roman invasion as it linked two of the South East's major Roman settlements, London and Silchester (between Reading and Basingstoke).

In 1222 the bridge appears in the historic record for the first time since the Roman era. Henry III provided timber from woodland in Windsor for repairs to the bridge. This was the first in a long line of timber provision by the Royal household that continued through to 1713. The first legislation relating to the bridge dates from 1509 and allowed the Lord Chancellor to appoint persons to take tolls and to repair the bridge. During the English Civil War, in 1671, the bridge was destroyed and replaced by a ferry by the bridgemasters. Records show that the bridge was been rebuilt by 1684/7, and its existence was threatened again in 1688 to hamper William of Orange's advance to London. A timber bridge was still recorded as being here in 1708.

However, by the late 18th century a new bridge was being built, from stone. Work began in 1791 to a design by Thomas Sandby and the bridge was complete in 1797. Unfortunatley the six years of work were in vain - the bridge collapse immediatley after opening! By 1803 a cast-iron bridge was in place, followed by a wood and iron construction in 1807. During all this time the old wooden bridge remained in place. The iron bridge quickly became unsafe and Acts in 1828, 1829 and 1834 led to the construction of the present day bridge.

The current bridge dates from 1832 and was officially opened by William IV. Its construction allowed some redesign of the street pattern of Staines with both Bridge Street and Clarence Street laid out at the same time. The bridge was designed by George and John Rennie, mainly known for their railway bridges, including Grosvenor Bridge.