Day 11: Marlow - Henley-on-Thames

I didn’t have the chance to continue the walk in January, but the first Saturday of February was a stunning day – perfect for a riverside walk. The only downside turned out to be the glare from the sun, often bouncing of the still clam surface of the river itself. The walk begins through the park at the southern end of Marlow’s high street. Looking back towards the buildings of the town, it was possible to make out the statue of Steve Redgrave, reminding us importance of rowing for this stretch of the Thames.

Very quickly Marlow retreats from the river. A look back, over the shoulder to see another great view of Marlow Bridge and the church spire, just as good as the approach from the other direction. This stretch of the Thames features large meadow land, and the immediate countryside seems to be very expansive. Buildings, when you do encounter them, appear bigger and bulkier than they probably are. This was the case with All Saints Church, Bisham that stands on the opposite banks. Shortly after you pass the back of Bisham Abbey, now part of the National Sports Centre.

As the river curves round to the west, the new flats on Temple Island come into view, crowded around the small marina. These do seems big and bulky and, I think, out of place. Temple Lock is then just ahead. Even though the lock is effectively closed for winter, the grumpy lockkeeper was very much on duty, giving me short shrift for trying the walk past the lock through the wrong gate.

Just after Temple Lock it is time to cross the river again, over a modern, beautifully curved wooded footbridge, built as part of joining together two sections of the Thames Path. A short walk along the south bank and we approach the island cluster around the village of Hurley. Here there is a great view of Harleyford Manor, and then we cross over onto the islands themselves to walk past Hurley Lock. Once past the lock, its back over another footbridge onto the south bank proper. Hurley is a very picturesque village, but sadly I did not have time to explore. However, there were plenty of canoeist about, clearly enjoying the cascades and rapids on the downstream side of the weir at Hurley.

The next stretch is probably the most ‘remote’ of the route so far. Glimpses of the Danesfield Hotel on the ridge above can be seen along this stretch, but the only signs of civilisation are a small caravan park, until we reach the houses at Frogmill. Once past these path takes a shortcut to avoid a small loop of the river. We meet the river again where there used to be one of the many Thames ferries. This is at Medmenham, with a grand view of the buildings of Medmenham Abbey. This is the location of the infamous Hellfire Club.

Quickly, we are back onto the riverside meadows approaching the Culham estate. The path then moves up the hill, away from the river and begins a complex zig-zig around the grounds of the estate, and past the handsome Culham Court built in 1771. Here we gain some considerable height above the river, particularly in the walk into Aston. This offers some great views down into the valley, with the river curving away into the distance.

Aston itself is a small hamlet, with a large attractive pub – The Flowerpot Hotel. The route then heads down the road from the village back towards the river, and Aston’s old ferry crossing. Across the river is another fine house at Hambleden Place. Now we back to civilisation, with many more people walking the path. The path reaches Hambleden Lock, with views across to the weir to Hambleden Mill. The river now forms a distinctive curve with he Italianate mansion of Greenlands prominent in the distance. This was the former home of the bookseller and stationer W H Smith. Indeed I have a vague memory of the upmarket own-brand writing paper sold by W H Smith carrying the Hambleden brand.

As the river straightens out, we find ourselves on the long stretch to Henley, and there were plenty of people out for an afternoon walk. Temple Island stands at the start of the Henley Regatta course, and is marked by a beautiful folly. It was originally built as a fishing lodge for nearby Fawley Court. Interestingly it was built in the same year as Culham Court was completed (1771). The main feature is the domed roof, supported by columns, sheltering the statute of a classical nude.

The church of Henley can now be seen in the far distance, and the final walk down to the town itself proves to be a pleasant experience for a sunny winter afternoon. The path then crosses the bridge, just after passing the famous Leander Club. This is Steve Redgrave’s rowing club and he has provided suitable bookends to this part of the walk.