Day 15: Shillingford - Day's Lock, Dorchester

All the weeks that have gone by with great weather, and then for the bank holiday weekend its goes cold and rains – constantly. The plan was to walk yesterday, but it rained – all day – and night. Then the plan was to walk today, as far as Culham. But it rained – most of the day.

In the end we visited a local museum in the morning, then went for lunch at the Barley Mow in Clifton Hampden. After a good lunch, the rain seemed to be easing, and we took the decision to walk a short stretch that afternoon. And luckily the rain was coming to a stop and for most of the walk not a drop of water was falling from the sky.

This short walk began away from the river, dropping down the first track by the bridge. We immediately pass a very muddy field with a family of Saddleback pigs, with a litter of piglets. As soon as they spotted us, they made a beeline for the fence near us. We then wound our way through the alleyways of Shillingford, coming out at the river end of Wharf Road, where the heights of floods from days gone by are recorded on the wall of the riverside cottage.

However, we must leave the river behind for a while, and head up to the main road – and this is a busy road, where we have to evade the spray from passing cars as they drive through the standing water. Soon, by the big road sign for Dorchester, we cross back over and walk the short path through a field and back down to the river.

The walk is then simply one through the riverside fields, where the grass is now pretty long. Whilst it’s no longer raining, the grass is very wet, and my trouser legs got quite damp. Very soon we spy the small hill to the left with the small copse of tree on top. This is Whittenham Clumps. Then just ahead is the lock-keepers cottage for Day’s Lock and beyond, the lock itself. Here, there is a red horse chestnut in full bloom.

But this is where we end the walk, but we must still take the path to Dorchester village, where the Abbey is clear on the skyline. As we approach the village, the rain sets in again – we were very lucky, and at least I got a bit of the path walked, even if it was my shortest leg! We call in on Dorchester Abbey itself, and the tiny tearoom in the old grammar school building. This is run by the WI and is simply two large tables in a small room. Tea or coffee available at good value, plus an excellent selection of homemade cakes. Worth a visit – if you can get a seat!

Upstairs, there is also an exhibition as part of the Artweeks festival taking place across Oxfordshire, in different location. I was sorely tempted to buy something, but resisted. Then we paid a quick call into the Abbey itself, where there was an unusual sound sculpture installed, which played out angelic chants at random, based on how people moved around the abbey. It was called Thin Air.

All in all a good day out, shame the walk wasn’t a bit longer.

Day 14: Goring - Shillingford

A beautiful morning for a walk through the Oxfordshire countryside along the Thames and today the Thames Path felt the most rural of all the 14 days walked so far. Not only was it because the path was, in parts, relatively remote from any form of settlement, but it was also a walk where we met very few people en route.

The walk began with a stroll across the long wide bridge that links Goring with Streatley. Then we turn done a small lane fronted by cottages with the church at the end. The path skirts around the churchyard and eventually leads into the fields bordering the river. From here it is a short walk through fields and woods to Cleeve Lock with a few sheep and their lambs relaxing in the grass. The path ahead is in the wide open through a riverside field. Approaching the next village of Moulsford we walk past the bottom of various gardens of large house. However, one of these houses is a little different to the others and to any I’ve seen so far on the Thames. The house is themed around Egyptian architecture, but has the air of a 1980s leisure centre. At first I thought this was in fact built in the 1980s, but further investigations on the web have revealed it to be built in the last few years.

Then the path has to divert away from the river and we are led through the yard of The Beetle & Wedge pub, up Ferry Lane, and onto the main road through Moulsford itself. Eventually we come to edge of the village and carry on along the main road. Down to the right in the valley we can see the river and the next bridge, another of Brunel’s brick railway bridges. Then the path is directed down a track opposite a bard conversion. The path leads down to the bridge and crosses over an elevated stage under the bridge itself. Then its back to a riverside walk through fields, in one case passing a field of bright yellow oil-seed rape. Then we come to a broad road that leads straight into the river and it is here we divert from the path for lunch, and head up, past some of the redundant buildings of Fair Mile Hospital, to the nearby pub. Its OK, but nowt special.

Back to the river and a walk through a local nature reserve followed by more idyllic riverside walking. Then suddenly the peace is broken by a rowing eight passing with their coach blasting instructions down a megaphone. After walking past a small stand of pines, we see the first evidence of Oxford upstream as we pass Oxford Brookes University’s boathouse. Later on the on the opposite bank the half-timbered boathouse of Carmel College stands proudly on a small promontory, but it has seen better days and is on the verge of collapsing into the river.

the riverbank Then we catch glimpse of a concrete road bridge, hinting that we are closing in on Wallingford. This is the by-pass bridge over the river and then soon after a new building which almost incorporates the path. Again it’s a university boathouse, but this is a far grander affair and shows some money has been spent on it and it belongs to the bigger, richer Oxford University Boat Club.

Then we’re into the built up area of Wallingford and we are walking past more houses, this time literally walking though people’s back garden – the path isn’t fenced off. Then the path hits the lanes of Wallingford, past St Leonard’s church and through alleyways between small cottages. Then the street opens out into a area dominated by the stunning spire of St Peter’s Church. Beyond this is the High Street, which we cross and drop back down to the river by Wallingford Bridge. The path continues northwards and is quickly back into the Oxfordshire fields. To the left are the ruins of Wallingford Castle, and a great silhouetted view of St Peter’s is behind us.

The path then leads to Benson lock where we cross the walkway by the weir. A short stop is then made at the well place tea rooms by the marina at Benson (they do very good homemade cakes and traybakes by the way!). Then its just a short walk to Shillingford where our car is waiting in the hotel car park.

Day 13: Reading - Goring

A day of contrasts today, beginning with the weather. The nature of every one of these legs along the Thames Path has been you have to arrange the means of transit to and from the start and end points. Today I decided to drive and park at Goring and get the train back to Reading to start the walk. Early morning at Goring it was misty, damp and decidedly cool. By the time I arrived in Reading the skies were blue, the temperature much higher and the sun was out. And bar the odd bit of cloud during the day, this was the weather I took with me on what was a great Easter weekend.

The walk was also one of contrasts particularly with the environment on opposite banks of the river. It began on the southern bank next to Clearwater Court, the headquarters of Thames Water. This is the building where the windows were being washed during the hosepipe ban last summer. The path between Reading and Caversham Bridges passes further offices and riverside houses and flats. After Caversham Bridge the land by the riverside opens up, passing Reading Rowing Club’s buildings we are on the Promenade with parkland on the Berkshire side of the river. Across the water the houses of The Warren form the river frontage. So on one side of the river are the large Thameside houses that have already become familiar. On the other the municipal park with the Rivermead leisure centre at its centre, plus to odd drunk slung over he benches.

After the leisure centre is passes the path passes the land where the Reading Festival is held and where the WOMAD Festival was also held, up until last year. Soon the houses on the Caversham bank end and give way to fields. Meanwhile on bank where I’m walking, the path approaches Tilehurst and the railway line. The path is squeeze on a strip of land between river and railway with little to see other than the fields on the opposite bank. Some of this stretch reminds me of the walk past the reservoirs in West London, but the graffiti is more amusing (“FREE STONHENGE ’85” “NO DOGGING”).

Then at the Roebuck pub, and at the point where the path arrives in West Berkshire, the path heads away from the river up some steep steps and over a railway footbridge onto the main Oxford Road. The reasons for this diversion is a recalcitrant Purley landowner in the 18th century who refused access to his land for the towpath, leading to huge delays for river traffic of the time. The office path now weaves its way through suburbia then finally hits the road to Mapledurham Lock. Sadly Mapledurham is one of the locks that is being worked on this winter and access is not possible. Instead we are diverted onto the meadows immediately upstream of the lock, missing the view of Mapledurham House and Mill.

The river now follows a huge arc en route to Pangbourne. This is a popular stretch on his sunny bank holiday with people walking in both directions. This stretch provides good views of Hardwick House and its impressive stable block that forms the stud farm here. At Pangbourne there are plenty of people having picnics on the riverbank, but I must continue over the bridge and onto the north bank. The bridge at Pangbourne is still a toll bridge charging 20p for each car. This is a private bridge run by the Whitchurch Bridge Company.

Whitchurch, the village on the northern bank begins a stretch of the walk that becomes a stroll through the rolling Chiltern countryside. The path follows the main road through the village then turns off along the farm track to Hartslock Farm. It also serves further houses, and also passes a doggy playground. We then follow a footpath down some steep steps and immediately up again and then winds its way through the riverside woods, back down to the river.

Out of the woods and up against the river once more, we arrive at Gatehampton Manor and then shortly afterwards pass under one of Brunel’s brick railway bridges, an impressive construction sat in this part of the Oxfordshire countryside. Then its just a short walk up to Goring Bridge and the village itself.

Day 12: Henley-on-Thames - Reading

An overcast and quite gloomy morning in Henley, but with the promise from the forecast for a sight of the sun before the day is out. And sure enough, it made its appearance well before lunch. The path from Henley passes the main car parks for Henley which later in the day will probably be quite full, but for now only a few local dog walkers are out and about. Towards the end of this area, and just before Mill Meadows, is the River & Rowing Museum, a large wooden clad modern building that opened in 1999 and designed by David Chipperfield.

At the other end of Mill Meadows is Marsh Lock, an unusual lock compared to others on the Thames. The lock system is mid-channel, as opposed to other which on alongside one of the riverbanks. The Thames Path passes past the lock, by way of a raised wooden walkway that stretches out into the river – the one time when you are truly walking the Thames. Around here are some pretty impressive and large houses on both banks, some of the largest I’ve seen on the walk. On the opposite bank is Park Place, with the Happy Valley behind, alongwith a cobbled bridge.

Soon the meadows come to end and reach the edge of Lower Shiplake. Another large house and its ground block the riverbank, so the Path diverts off away from the river and follows the road that serves the houses ahead. This first house, Bolney Court, has its own model railway. The first sign is the large model railway station building, complete with working clock tower. The railway tracks hug the edge of the driveway and snake their way around the garden. I can only imagine what the actual trains are like that run on this great garden toy. The big boy’s alternative to Hornby once you made a few million!

We now follow the road through Lower Shiplake onto the real life railway station. Here we cross tracks and past the Baskerville Arms (looks like a very nice menu) and follow more of the streets of the village. Eventually the path diverts via fields back towards the river at Shiplake Lock.

Then its back to the river and the Thames meadows as the path winds it way towards Sonning. Shiplake College stands on the ridge high above the river immediately to the north, and eventually the path opens up onto the lawns by the College’s quaint half-timbered boathouse. But the path continues along one of my favourite stretches of the river that I knew already. The green shoots of spring starting to burst from the river side shrubs. Following pleasant riverside stroll Sonning suddenly appears with a great view of the red brick bridge that links the village to the Mill, now a theatre complex. The path cross the bridge and then passes St Andrew’s Church and The Bull Inn (again another good menu). A little further on is Sonning Lock and then the final stretch of the river before the mood changes once again.

Reading soon makes its presence felt, and it brings back a London-esque feel to the Thames. The meadows by Thames Valley Business Park stretch ahead, dominated by a view of the twin gas holders at Kennetmouth. To the right are the buildings of the business park, on a former power station site. The likes of Microsoft and Oracle have their offices here, the businesses that now ensure that Reading has been successful in the modern world. At the end of the meadows by the business park are the impressive facilities of Wokingham Canoe Club. Then we finally pass the towering gas holders before one of the Thames major tributaries enters the river. Here the Kennet flows in and is crossed by Horseshoe Bridge, that clings to side of the railway bridge. This then leads the path past Tesco and then onto Kings Meadow and subsequently Caversham Lock. Immediately after is the first of Reading's two bridge, Reading Bridge and it is here where we round off today’s walk.

Bridges No.40 - M25 Motorway Bridge

The M25 is carried over two very different bridges as the pictures above show. The top image shows the bridge on the downstream side of the motorway, while the lower image shows the upstream side.

The first bridge on this site, was the upstream bridge. It was designed by Edward Lutyens to carry the A30 Staines bypass over the river and it bears a strong resemblance to Lutyen's Hampton Court Bridge. Lutyens worked with the engineer H W Fitzsimmons for the design, which was ready in 1939. However, the Second World War intervened and construction was delayed for around 20 years before it opened in November 1961. The bridge is built from reinforced concrete and steel, clad with red bricks and Portland stone balustrades.

Lutyens was also involved in the early ideas for an orbital road around London in his Highway Development Survey of 1937. The first parts of the M25 that were eventually built were J23-24 (Hatfield - Potters Bar) in 1975 and J6-8 (East Grinstead - Reigate) in 1976. It was then decided that the M25 should cross the Thames alongside the A30 at Staines and a second bridge would be required. This was the preferred to the construction of a tunnel under the river. By 1983, the second bridge, alongside Lutyen's was opened, designed by Ove Arup and Partners. The bridge has the same general profile at Lutyen's bridge, alowing for what appears to be a seamless single bridge when viewed side on.

Day 11: Marlow - Henley-on-Thames

I didn’t have the chance to continue the walk in January, but the first Saturday of February was a stunning day – perfect for a riverside walk. The only downside turned out to be the glare from the sun, often bouncing of the still clam surface of the river itself. The walk begins through the park at the southern end of Marlow’s high street. Looking back towards the buildings of the town, it was possible to make out the statue of Steve Redgrave, reminding us importance of rowing for this stretch of the Thames.

Very quickly Marlow retreats from the river. A look back, over the shoulder to see another great view of Marlow Bridge and the church spire, just as good as the approach from the other direction. This stretch of the Thames features large meadow land, and the immediate countryside seems to be very expansive. Buildings, when you do encounter them, appear bigger and bulkier than they probably are. This was the case with All Saints Church, Bisham that stands on the opposite banks. Shortly after you pass the back of Bisham Abbey, now part of the National Sports Centre.

As the river curves round to the west, the new flats on Temple Island come into view, crowded around the small marina. These do seems big and bulky and, I think, out of place. Temple Lock is then just ahead. Even though the lock is effectively closed for winter, the grumpy lockkeeper was very much on duty, giving me short shrift for trying the walk past the lock through the wrong gate.

Just after Temple Lock it is time to cross the river again, over a modern, beautifully curved wooded footbridge, built as part of joining together two sections of the Thames Path. A short walk along the south bank and we approach the island cluster around the village of Hurley. Here there is a great view of Harleyford Manor, and then we cross over onto the islands themselves to walk past Hurley Lock. Once past the lock, its back over another footbridge onto the south bank proper. Hurley is a very picturesque village, but sadly I did not have time to explore. However, there were plenty of canoeist about, clearly enjoying the cascades and rapids on the downstream side of the weir at Hurley.

The next stretch is probably the most ‘remote’ of the route so far. Glimpses of the Danesfield Hotel on the ridge above can be seen along this stretch, but the only signs of civilisation are a small caravan park, until we reach the houses at Frogmill. Once past these path takes a shortcut to avoid a small loop of the river. We meet the river again where there used to be one of the many Thames ferries. This is at Medmenham, with a grand view of the buildings of Medmenham Abbey. This is the location of the infamous Hellfire Club.

Quickly, we are back onto the riverside meadows approaching the Culham estate. The path then moves up the hill, away from the river and begins a complex zig-zig around the grounds of the estate, and past the handsome Culham Court built in 1771. Here we gain some considerable height above the river, particularly in the walk into Aston. This offers some great views down into the valley, with the river curving away into the distance.

Aston itself is a small hamlet, with a large attractive pub – The Flowerpot Hotel. The route then heads down the road from the village back towards the river, and Aston’s old ferry crossing. Across the river is another fine house at Hambleden Place. Now we back to civilisation, with many more people walking the path. The path reaches Hambleden Lock, with views across to the weir to Hambleden Mill. The river now forms a distinctive curve with he Italianate mansion of Greenlands prominent in the distance. This was the former home of the bookseller and stationer W H Smith. Indeed I have a vague memory of the upmarket own-brand writing paper sold by W H Smith carrying the Hambleden brand.

As the river straightens out, we find ourselves on the long stretch to Henley, and there were plenty of people out for an afternoon walk. Temple Island stands at the start of the Henley Regatta course, and is marked by a beautiful folly. It was originally built as a fishing lodge for nearby Fawley Court. Interestingly it was built in the same year as Culham Court was completed (1771). The main feature is the domed roof, supported by columns, sheltering the statute of a classical nude.

The church of Henley can now be seen in the far distance, and the final walk down to the town itself proves to be a pleasant experience for a sunny winter afternoon. The path then crosses the bridge, just after passing the famous Leander Club. This is Steve Redgrave’s rowing club and he has provided suitable bookends to this part of the walk.

Bridges No.39 - Staines Bridge

Staines has a long history, and developed in part as a crossing point of the Thames. There has been a bridge at Staines since at least Roman times. This is clear from the name given to Staines by the Romans: Pontes. Staines was an important crossing point following the Roman invasion as it linked two of the South East's major Roman settlements, London and Silchester (between Reading and Basingstoke).

In 1222 the bridge appears in the historic record for the first time since the Roman era. Henry III provided timber from woodland in Windsor for repairs to the bridge. This was the first in a long line of timber provision by the Royal household that continued through to 1713. The first legislation relating to the bridge dates from 1509 and allowed the Lord Chancellor to appoint persons to take tolls and to repair the bridge. During the English Civil War, in 1671, the bridge was destroyed and replaced by a ferry by the bridgemasters. Records show that the bridge was been rebuilt by 1684/7, and its existence was threatened again in 1688 to hamper William of Orange's advance to London. A timber bridge was still recorded as being here in 1708.

However, by the late 18th century a new bridge was being built, from stone. Work began in 1791 to a design by Thomas Sandby and the bridge was complete in 1797. Unfortunatley the six years of work were in vain - the bridge collapse immediatley after opening! By 1803 a cast-iron bridge was in place, followed by a wood and iron construction in 1807. During all this time the old wooden bridge remained in place. The iron bridge quickly became unsafe and Acts in 1828, 1829 and 1834 led to the construction of the present day bridge.

The current bridge dates from 1832 and was officially opened by William IV. Its construction allowed some redesign of the street pattern of Staines with both Bridge Street and Clarence Street laid out at the same time. The bridge was designed by George and John Rennie, mainly known for their railway bridges, including Grosvenor Bridge.

Bridges No.38 - Staines Railway Bridge

The first bridge encountered at Staines when travelling upstream is the railway bridge. This sits on a stretch of track between Egham and Staines stations on the line running from Reading to London Waterloo. This is the same line that crosses the river over Richmond Railway Bridge. Staines Railway Bridge was designed by John Gardner for the Staines, Wokingham and Woking Junction Railway. The SW&WJR was very quickly to become part of the London & South Western Railway. The bridge is built from wrought iron plate girders and rests on two piers consisting of three cast-iron cylinders filled with concrete. The bridge was built by Cochrane & Co and opened for service in 1856. This was the year when the line from Staines was extended out to Ascot and Wokingam. At Wokingham the line then connected with the South Eastern Railway line into Reading.

Bridges No.37 - M3 Motorway Bridge

The bridge carrying the M3 over the Thames is the first motorway bridge you encounter when travelling upstream, a short distance from Chertsey Bridge and Lock. The M3 bridge is a cantilever bridge and was built in 1971 to a design by Posford, Pavry & Partners with Courtney Theobald acting as consulatant architects. It is built from high tensile steel. Although a single structure with a uniform design, the two carridgeways of the motorway are carried on separate sections and are at slightly different heights. The downstream deck was brought into use first in 1970, with the upstream deck being used from March 1971 when the bridge was completed. However, the bridge forms part of the motorway that was not fully opened until 1974. The original section of the M3 ran from junction 3 (Bagshot) to junction 8 (Michedever). The London bound extension to junction 1 was opened in 1974.

Bridges No.36 - Chertsey Bridge

Given the relatively high population of this part of the country, the stretch of Thames between Kingston and Staines has very few bridges. There is a long stretch from Walton with no road bridge, until the river reaches Chertsey. This bridge at Chertsey is old in comparison to some of the others further downstream. The present day bridge dates from 1785. But the history of a bridge here goes back much further. Henry VI granted the people of Chertsey a licence to build a bridge in 1410. The Abbot of Chertsey saw that the bridge was built and maintained. It was of timber construction and stood about 25 metres downstream of the present day crossing.

Being a wooden bridge it needed regular repairs due to floodwater damage and bridge hits by barges. By 1662 the residents of Chertsey were campaigning for a new bridge, but matters remained unresolved until the late 18th century. In 1779 the bridge was once again in a parlous state. The Justices of Surrey and Middlesex met and obtained estimates for a new stone bridge. James Paine, an architect from Addlestone designed the bridge and work got underway in the early 1780s. The original plan had been for a five arch bridge, but when this was completed there had clearly been an error in the measurements - the bridge didn't reach either bank! Further money had to be spent to build additional spans on both banks, but all was complete by 1785. But the bridge still stands to this day, and remains one of the Thames' oldest and elegant bridges.

Bridges No.35 - Walton Bridge

Walton Bridge is not going to win any awards for beauty. This crossing at Walton-on-Thames has a long history, and my thanks go to the excellent resource on the bridge on the Surrey County Council website. There have, to date, been five bridges at Walton, the sixth should be on its way in the not too distant future.

THE 1750 BRIDGE
The first Walton Bridge was built in 1750 to replace a long standing ferry service. It was funded by a local landowner, Samuel Dicker, MP for Plymouth. Dicker was first and foremost a business man, with plantations in Jamaica, but he was also an MP and he would have travelled through Walton to reach Westminster from his constituency. There was also the businessman's nouse of reaping some tolls from one of the few physical river crossing at the time. Construction work began in 1748 and was built from wood, using an unsual lattice structure. It was designed by William Etheridge. The bridge is most famously captured in a painting of 1754 by Caneletto (shown above) where the design is very striking. To me it looks quite a modern design and reminds me of the Olympic stadium currently being constructed in Beijing.

The bridge, like many of the Thames's early wooden bridge, became expensive to maintain. In 1760 Dicker died and ownership passed to his nephew Michael Dicker Sanders. In 1778 John Smeaton reported on the bridge's condition and recommend it me taken down and replaced by a brick arch. Five years later the bridge was dismantled to make way for the construction of the second bridge.

THE 1788 BRIDGE
The second bridge followed Smeaton's recommendation for a brick built bridge and James Pain designed it, also making use of stone. Five years passed between the demolition of the first bridge and the completion of Pain's structure. The bridge stood for 73 years until disaster struck in August 1859. The twon central arches collapsed suddenly into the river. The theory was that settlement of the foundations under the central pier led to the collapse. There was an urgent need for the bridge to be replaced and until that could happen ferries returned to ply their trade at Walton.

THE 1864 BRIDGE
Following the collapse the then owner, Thomas Newman Allen, promoted a Parliamentary Bill for a new bridge at Walton, together with two further bridges downstream to fill the gap between Walton and Hampton Court. These two bridges never became a reality, but Walton Bridge was rebuilt and opened in 1864. The bridge was of iron girder construction resting on brick and stone piers. It was designed by E T Murray. On the Walton side of the river a brick arch viaduct was also built acorss the area of floodplain. This section of the bridge remains to this day. Tolls were removed in 1870 when ownership of Kingston and Walton bridges passed to the Metropolitan Board of Works.

In 1940 the bridge was damaged during a German air raid. The structure was weakened as a result and weight limits were imposed. After the war, and the construction of the fourth bridge, the third bridge remained in use for pedestrians and cyclists but by the 1980s it became to costly to maintain it and it was demolished in 1985.

THE 1953 BRIDGE
With the 1864 bridge become ever more weaker following the war, Middlesex County Council built a bridge immediatley alongside it in 1953. It was intended to be built quickly and to act as a temporary crossing before a more permanent solution was found. The bridge was known as the 'Callender-Hamilton' bridge. However, the bridge still stands to this day on the downstream side of the crossing and is the section shown in my main picture at the top of this entry.

Given the temporary nature of the bridge it was never designed to require long-term maintenance. For instance the metal work on the bridge was never painted, and no waterproofing was provided between the roadway and the steel supporting plates. When the third bridge was demomlished in 1985 the fourth bridge also underwent a thorough inspection and a weight limited was imposed. The plan was to allow continued use of the bridge, with maintenance work as required, until such a time as permanent replacement could be constructed. However, by 1993 this had still not happened, and further assessments of the bridge's structure led to a further reduction of the weight limit.

In June 1998 the then six-monthly safety inspections showed the need for more strengthening works, but once again the weight limit had to be reduced, down to 7.5 tonnes. The fourth bridge remains in place today, but like the third bridge before it, it is now only used by pedestrians and cyclists.

THE 1999 BRIDGE
The 1998 inspection of the fourth bridge led to the urgent requirement for a new bridge for road traffic. That inspection determined that it would now be too costly to continue to maintain the fourth bridge. The fifth bridge was built in the same position as the third, alongside the 1953 bridge. The 1999 bridge is was built very quickly. An application to Government for funding for a temporary crossing was submitted in August 1998. Planning permission was granted in June 1999 and construction began in August. By December the bridge was complete.

THE 2009 BRIDGE?

A condition of the planning permission for the 1999 bridge was that bridge would only be in place for a maximum of 10 years. Therefore a brand new bridge is required for February 2009, although that deadline is looking increasingly ambitious. In 2003 different design options were made available for public consulatation. The Tiered Arch design, shown above, was subsequently selected in Sepetember 2003. The scheme also includes some improvements to the road layout in the immediate area of the bridge. For this a compulsory purchase order in required, but in December 2006 the Department of Transport decided not to confirm the CPOs drafted by Surrey County Council. Consequently the scheme is on hold until the issues are resolved, and it is now highly unlikely that a new bridge will be in place by 2009 and some maintenance work will be needed on the current crossing.

Bridges No.34 - Hampton Court Bridge

Hampton Court Bridge, like the nearby Palace and the area around it, has a long history. The first bridge was built here in 1752/53 at a point where an older ferry crossing was in existence. The bridge was wooden in construction and comprised of seven arches in the Chinoisere style. This is essentialy a Western European design style that influenced heavily by traditional Chinese design. The bridge adopted a style similar to the Willow Pattern seen on blue plates. The the bridge only lasted 25 years before being replaced by a second wooden bridge in 1778, which was a little more robust.

Almost 100 years later, in 1864, work began to replace the bridge once more, this time to a design by E T Murray. The new bridge was built from wrought iron lattice girders resting of four cast iron columns. The approach the the bridge was by way of crenallated brick walls, the remains of one still standing today on the south bank. The bridge opened in 1866.

The present day bridge is the fourth for Hampton Court and was designed by W P Robinson and Sir Edward Lutyens. The new design was created to complement the proportions of the nearby Palace. Work began in 1930 and the bridge is constructed from reinforced concrete with a facing of red bricks. The bridge opened in July 1933, on the same day as both Chiswick and Twickenham Bridges.

The Walk - A Summary So Far

Now that I've done 10 days of the walk I thought I'd tally up how far I've walked so far. I started over the Easter weekend, which now seems a long time ago. But most weekends I've been busy with other things, that have meant I've not been able to do the walk. The journey breaks down as follows:

Day 1 Crayford Ness - Charlton 10.5 miles
Day 2 Charlton - Rotherhithe 9.3 miles
Day 3 Rotherhithe - Vauxhall 4.6 miles
Day 4 Vauxhall - Barnes 9.7 miles
Day 5 Barnes - Kingston 9.6 miles
Day 6 Kingston - Shepperton 9.2 miles
Day 7 Shepperton - Staines 5.6 miles
Day 8 Staines - Datchet 6.5 miles
Day 9 Datchet - Maidenhead 8.9 miles
Day 10 Maidenhead - Marlow 7.5 miles
TOTAL 81.4 miles

Day 10: Maidenhead - Marlow

I’ve often started these accounts of the daily walks with an account of the weather, and today was a mild day (for December) with some pleasant sunny spells. And the warmer temperatures that we seem to have had this year have led us to have a particularly wet autumn. Since I arrived at Maidenhead at the end of October, a lot of water has passed under the bridge, and on arriving at Maidenhead Bridge this morning, there was still a lot of water passing underneath it. The river was high, as I’d suspected, but the Environment Agency website said that there was no flood warning for this stretch of the Thames, so all should be well for a walk to Marlow. But the river was definitely higher, flowing faster, and browner – a sign of more silt and mud being carried.

The path from Maidenhead follows the road north to Cookham as far as Boulter’s Lock. This entrance to the lock is marked by a small hump-backed bridge, and it was a surpise to see the lock immediately behind it. Since I last went walking the river has closed up for the winter. Many of the locks are now shut, some are being refurbished and the cruisers are tied up in the marinas. After Boulters, the path moves off road once more, passing some large houses once more, including Maidenhead Court. Oddly, these big piles are larger than the houses south of Maidenhead, but they don’t look as grand. Many seem to have been converted into flats and retirement homes with the odd harsh warning sign to deter trespassers – one giving details of laser powered concealed CCTV.

Soon there are just fields and trees all around and the path starts to get a bit muddy. To the right, on the opposite bank, the high escarpment of the Cliveden Estate is showing off the last of its autumn colour. If I’d been down here a couple of weeks ago I suspect it’d have been a riot of oranges, browns and red, but by now most of the leaves had dropped. Sadly you don’t get a view of Cliveden itself, but you do see the manicured lawns and chocolate box cottages on the bankside, and a round tower folly high up on the hill.
At this point, where there used to be a ferry for the horse drawn boats, the path turns away from the river, down pathways and lanes towards Cookham village. Cookham is a typical English village with a scienic view down the high street. Around the corner and the path passes through churchyard of Holy Trinity Church, a beautiful 12th century church with square tower. This leads straight down to the river, just upstream of Cookham Bridge. The riverside path passes through Cookham Reach Boat Sailing Club and then onto the open marsh land.

Through a gate and we’re onto National Trust land, signed as Cock Marsh. This leads the path up to the Bourne End Railway Bridge where the path passes across the footbridge towards Bourne End village. Turn left and down a narrow path way to the riverside boathouses. The river now turns westwards and once past the long run of these boathouses the path comes to the edge of Spade Oak Meadows. Here the train line from Marlow comes very close to the river and very close to the path. Here the trains run very slowly – perhaps because of the waterlogging.

I assume that the river did flood over here earlier in the week, as the meadows, particularly the first field, are very very muddy (I should have worn my walking boots!). The sun was getting low now and reflecting off the river as we approached the large villas on the opposite bank, some clinging to the slopes of Winter Hill. Some are particularly stunning (but the best are hidden on the other side of the island – having sailed down this stretch in the summer I can vouch for that). Then the path curves round and heads towards Marlow. Under the by-pass bridge and into a park the path moves away. Here its worth just nipping down a side path to see a stunning view of Marlow from Marlow Lock. Historically the horse drawn barges had to untie their horses along this stretch and the horses were led around Marlow streets and the Seven Corner Alley, a narrow high-walled path around the backs of Marlow’s buildings. Emerging from the alley I drew my walk to an end and headed for the station.

Bridges No.33 - Kingston Bridge

It is hard to imagine in 2006 that for hundreds of years the only way of crossing the Thames was by boat. Kingston Bridge was the only bridge crossing of the Thames upstream of London Bridge. This status ended in 1729 with a wooden bridge at Putney, but bridges at Kingston (mainly wooden) had been in existence since the 13th century and assisted in the growth of Kingston as a settlement.

Little seems to be known about the early wooden bridges, but there are known to have been at least three. The last timber bridge was in a poor state of repair when it finally was replace and at only 12 feet wide was increasingly incapable of handling traffic volumes. The first masonry bridge was completed in 1828. This bridge had five arches built from Portland stone to a design of a Edward Lapidge. The first stone was laid by the Robert Jenkinson, the 2nd Earl of Liverpool in November 1825. In 1870 the bridge became toll-free, the first time this situation had prevailed for over 650 years. It was a cause of local celebration with a firework display and the toll gates were ceremoniously burnt in on Hampton Green.

Tram lines were added in 1907, but the narrow width of the bridge was once again creating difficulties. Tragically a young cyclist was killed on the bridge in 1911 and led to the widening of the bridge. It was extended by 55 feet on the downstread side by Mott & Hay and reopened in 1914 with a new facing of Portland stone that was designed to replicate the original 1828 facade. More recently the bridge was widened for a second time in 2000, this time on the upstream side, allowing for bicycle lanes, winder footpaths and a bus lane to be included. It reopened a year later.

Bridges No.32 - Kingston Railway Bridge

Kingston Railway Bridge won't win any awards for its looks looking dull even on a bright sunny day. The Thames Path passes along a service road under one of the main spans, which is also shared by a car park. The bridge is used by South West Train services on the 'Kingston Loop' leading trains towards Shepperton and Richmond. It forms part of the line bewteen Kingston and Hampton Wick stations. The bridge is gunmetal grey and is now bedecked by pipes transporting some unknown commodity over the Thames.

The bridge was built by the London & South Western Railway and was designed by J E Errington, however, he died just before work on the bridge commenced. W R Galbraith took Errington's place to oversea the construction of the bridge. It was built by Thomas Brassey and opened in July 1863.

Westminster Bridge - An Update

Back in July I added my entry for Westminster Bridge and noted that there appeared to be some repair work going on. This week there was something of an explanation from Transport for London. TfL are currently replacing the cast iron fascias on the bridge. There are 14 in total, and so far two have been replaced. Each fascia weighs 15 tonnes and was lifted into place by a floating crane. My picture from the summer clearly shows the crane in position. Work on the third fascia begins this November. This work forms part of a longer term maintenance job on the bridge. In 2005 scour protection works were carried out. The fascia replacement, currently underway, should be completed by late 2007. In 2008 the lighting on the bridge is due to be renewed, as is the road surface. Finally corrosion protection work will be carried out, with all works due to finish in 2009.

More info on the TfL website.

Day 9: Datchet - Maidenhead

I’m struggling to find weekends when I can do some of the walk now. Either I’m busy with other things, or like last weekend the weather was lousy. Luckily we had a bright sunny day, and like much of this autumn it was unusually warm from the time of year. It was also the day the clocks went back – winter will be here soon!

So to Datchet, and a short walk from the station to the river – just what I like. However, the walk starts along the main road through the village, until eventually a small path turns back to the river. There is then a pleasant stroll through the riverside woods with the first glimpse of Windsor Castle. Very soon I’m at the Victoria Bridge, the companion bridge to the Albert Bridge further downstream. The path cross back over the river at this point onto The Home Park. Here there are great views of both the Castle and Eton College chapel. And on this Sunday morning the park is packed with schoolboy rugby – so this could well be the ‘playing fields of Eton’. The path then passes under the railway and through a boatyard. Windsor Lock is nearby, but we don’t go anywhere near. Then very quickly I’m in Windsor itself. At this point the path cross the river again over the pedestrian only Windsor Bridge across to the southern end of Eton High Street.

The path then goes past the old Eton Boat House and onto the meadows with the classic river view of the Castle. Up ahead I quickly catch up with a ‘crocodile’ of OAPs on a morning stroll. Eventually I get past them at one of the bridges that pass over the river just west of Windsor. On the southern bank the eastern edge of Windsor Race Course can be seen while the river kinks quiet sharply. I follow the river but the OAPs take the short cut. By the time I rejoin the main path, they’ve overtaken me and I have to go through the same delicate process of trying to get past them!

The path no edges fields until it reaches Boveney Lock and goes on to the small, wooden built chapel dedicated to St Mary Magdalene. The chapel was once in a quiet spot by Boveney Court alongside the vast expanse of Dorney Fields. However, now there is a bit more going on here. Particularly today. Ahead is Dorney Lake, Eton College’s purpose built rowing lake construction of which began in 1996 and took 10 years to fully develop. It was used earlier this year for the World Rowing Championships and will be the rowing venue for the 2012 Olympics. The facility opened in 2000, and today was playing host to a 10,000 km race for Cancer Research UK.

The rowing lake run diagonally away from the river and eventually it is in the distance, while the riverside path winds it way through riparian woodland. Eventually the gothic splendour of Oakley Court appears on the opposite side of the river. Oakley is now a hotel was originally built as a private house in 1859 for Sir Richard Hall Say. In 1965 the then owner died and the property stood empty for 14 years, but with Bray Studios next door, it was used as a setting in a number of films in particular the St Trinians series, The Rocky Horror Show, Half A Sixpence, Murder by Death and a number of Hammer House Horror films including Dracula.

Soon I am at Bray Lock, a very small lock that is about to go through some refurbishment and bank strengthening work over the winter. The M4 bridge is then close by and the rest of the walk involves more woodland paths up to the large riverside houses at Taplow and Maidenhead, leading to Brunel’s impressive bridge for the Great Western line. Unlike at Datchet, I then have a walk of just over a mile to Maidenhead station. Bad news!